Es Baluard

It was built in the last quarter of the 16th century, when the old medieval walls were reinforced with a new defensive ring designed by Italian engineer Giacomo Palearo, known as Fratín. Sant Pere stood out for its size and position, and one of Europe’s most respected artillery schools was established here.

The complex took on its present shape in the 18th century. Military use ended in 1952, after more than three hundred years, and it passed into private ownership. The new owners wanted to develop the whole site. In 1963, they tried to demolish the wall using lime bombs. Palma’s residents opposed the destruction. The bastion was protected as a historic ensemble, and reconstruction began in 1965.

The site was secured for public use in the late 1980s. In 1997, Palma’s council made it available for the museum.

Lluís García-Ruiz, Jaume García-Ruiz, Vicente Tomás and Ángel Sánchez Cantalejo designed the museum in 2003. Its 5,027 square metres include 2,500 square metres of exhibition space across three levels. Ramps, skylights and large internal balconies connect the floors and the outside spaces. The idea was to create something like a street through the interior.

Concrete and glass deliberately contrast with the sandstone walls. You can always tell what’s old and what’s new. The museum opened on 30 January 2004.

Beneath the site is a freshwater cistern completed in the 1640s. Rectangular and covering 353 square metres, it has a shallow barrel vault and ventilation openings. Water came from a spring near Esporles, supplying the Puig de Sant Pere neighbourhood and ships entering the harbour. Today, the Aljub is an exhibition space.

Courtyards, terraces and the wall-top path make a worthwhile circuit in their own right. They’re free to enter daily from 8am until midnight. Sculptures stand outside, including Rafael Canogar’s large Corten steel head, Cabeza.

Many local people come up simply for the view. To the east are the old-town roofs and cathedral; to the south and west lies the harbour. There’s a café-restaurant on the terrace.

The collection holds more than 700 works connected with the Balearic Islands and international art. It begins with modern landscape painters including Joaquim Mir, Santiago Rusiñol and Hermen Anglada-Camarasa, then moves through Miró, Picasso and Tàpies to Miquel Barceló and contemporary artists. Temporary exhibitions occupy the larger part of the museum.

Mornings tend to be quietest. In high summer, the largely unshaded walls become very hot, so come early or during the final hour before closing. Friday afternoons are busier because visitors can choose their admission price.