Palau March

It is younger than it looks. Built between 1939 and 1945 as the home of financier Juan March Ordinas, it was designed by Madrid architect Luis Gutiérrez Soto, with Gabriel Alomar Esteve supervising construction.

The deliberately historic style draws on Mallorcan and Italian Baroque palaces. Its setting was no accident: this is the oldest part of the city, within sight of the cathedral, Almudaina and what is now the parliament building.

This is the part I would come back for. A semicircular arcade of pale natural stone opens onto a broad paved courtyard with a balustrade — and 20th-century sculptures standing outdoors, without glass cases or barriers.

Artists represented include Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Eduardo Chillida. Modern bronze and marble in front of the Almudaina’s medieval defensive walls make for a combination you won’t find elsewhere in the city.

My second reason to visit, and for many people the first. A room of its own holds an 18th-century Neapolitan nativity scene. The foundation lists more than a thousand painted and dressed figures; counts that include animals, buildings and accessories put the entire ensemble at more than two thousand pieces.

What matters is the work in every figure: individually modelled faces and clothes that are stitched rather than painted. Take your time and, alongside the Holy Family, you will find a whole market, a procession of kings, shepherds, beggars and animals.

It stays on display all year.

The historic living rooms retain their furnishings rather than being cleared for displays: a dining room with a long table, bedrooms and drawing rooms. A large painting covers the ceiling above the staircase. The murals are by Josep Maria Sert, whose Palma commission was among his last works.

There is also the library room, with manuscripts, early printed books and nautical charts from the 14th and 15th centuries.

Allow a good hour for the house, or two if you enjoy studying the nativity scene.

It is closed on Sundays and public holidays, with shorter hours on Saturdays. Weekday opening is longer but differs between summer and winter. Check the Fundación Bartolomé March website before making firm plans.

Driving to the narrow street is impractical. There are car parks at Parc de la Mar.

October and March bring warm light on the terrace and fewer visitors. In high summer, the courtyard is exposed to the midday sun, so arrive at opening time instead.

In January, the nativity scene feels particularly fitting, although it is on display throughout the year.