Sóller

Mountains separate the valley from Palma. Before the road tunnel opened in 1997, the Coll de Sóller pass road, with fifty-seven bends, made moving freight difficult.

Trade went by sea instead, particularly to southern France. Oranges and lemons left the valley, and money returned. During the 19th century, families moved to Marseille, Nîmes and Sète, founded trading businesses and sent their profits home. Successful families built grand houses in Sóller, with broad façades, cornices and wrought iron.

French words also found their way into the valley’s local speech.

The parish church of Sant Bartomeu stands on the main square. The church itself is older, but its prominent façade was built between 1902 and 1912, designed by Joan Rubió i Bellver, a pupil and colleague of Antoni Gaudí. Rubió also designed the neighbouring Banc de Sóller façade, a bank serving the fruit merchants’ international business.

A short walk uphill brings you to Can Prunera, a Modernista house from 1911, also attributed to Rubió. Since 24 August 2009, it has housed the Museu Modernista. Original furniture, floors and the staircase remain, alongside works by Miró, Picasso, Gauguin, Klimt, Foujita and Miquel Barceló. It is a substantial collection for a small mountain town.

The Ferrocarril de Sóller has linked Palma and Sóller since 16 April 1912. Local citrus traders financed it to get their produce to Palma’s port in hours rather than days.

The engineering helps explain the appeal: 27.3 kilometres, 199 metres of elevation change, average gradients of 23 per thousand and thirteen tunnels. The longest, Tunnel Major beneath the mountains, is 2,876 metres long. There is also a viaduct, with wooden and brass-trimmed carriages recalling the railway’s early years.

Today it is priced as a visitor attraction, but remains a memorable way to arrive in the valley.

The tram followed a year later. Its line was inaugurated on 4 October 1913, with regular services beginning on 13 October. The 4.9-kilometre route runs from the station through town, past orange groves and down to the harbour promenade.

It crosses the main square, close to the café tables. Keep chairs and feet clear when it passes.

According to the chronicles, around 1,600 Algerian and Turkish corsairs landed at Sóller’s harbour on 11 May 1561, intending to plunder the town and take captives. The local people fought them off.

Two stories are especially remembered: the sisters Francisca and Catalina Casesnoves, who killed attackers in their own home, and the women associated with Can Tamany, credited in local tradition with helping turn the battle.

During the May celebrations, the town re-enacts the attack with boats, gunpowder, costumes and dense crowds. Es Firó matters deeply to local participants; visitors watch rather than treating it as a show staged for them.

Five kilometres and a tram ride away is an almost enclosed circular bay, with a sandy beach, two lighthouses and more holiday activity than the inland town. Summer boats leave from here for Sa Calobra.

October is my favourite: warm days, fewer visitors and oranges beginning to colour. January and February bring the harvest and almond blossom, with oranges at the market sometimes cheaper by the kilo than a coffee.

In August, train tickets can sell out, heat builds up in the valley and the port is crowded.